Saturday, February 19, 2011

Indigenous Village Guards

The smell of my ambush when setting foot on the island of Sumba, for the first time. Airports Tambolaka mingled smells like flowers and leaves of forest. This Sumba, where savannas fenced beach and blue sky. Sumba, a land of Rato, where blood was spilled to deliver souls.

The first city that I go named Waikabubak, the capital of West Sumba district. This city is one hour drive from the airport Tambolaka. Waikabubak many recommended by the fans of the trip as a heading to explore the West Sumba and the surrounding region.

After placing the bag in the hotel, I'll get around the city armed with a piece of the map. The first objective is to find food stalls, which I found after walking some distance from the inn. I subsequently learned that the diner is a rare commodity in Sumba. They only exist in some of the city, the rest is on the terminal or main roadside stopover.


Not far from the road Bhayangkara which is the main road, there are three indigenous villages namely Tarung village, villages and hamlets Waitabar Klembung Prai. Although located in the center of the three village residents still adhere to traditional beliefs. Ascend a bit, I found a collection of wooden houses with thatched roofed tomb stones around it.

This traditional house has three parts. The very bottom is the abode of pets such as buffalo, pigs, goats and chickens. On it was the family residence. Villagers told me that once, one house can accommodate 60 people who sleep around the hearth.

In the middle of the custom house there is a fireplace that is always lit. Above the fireplace hanging food storage boxes that have been cooked, so do not eat animals that freely roam in the house. The fire also keeps food warm and durable.

The third part is the roof of the house. Sumba traditional roofs towering, can be up to 8 meters. On the roof there is a room that is used to store food reserves. Tools ceremony also usually stored here.



The inhabitants of the village are very friendly to invite me to chat. They were surprised when I explained that I had come alone from Jakarta, and then greeted me with the title "lady's sister." Residents talk about marapu village, traditional religion of Sumba. Marapu is confidence in the world of spirits which have great impact in human life that are still alive. Although worship ancestral spirits, does not mean adherent Marapu no God. 

Marapu adherents believe in the supreme creator who heard and saw all that he did against the spirit causing manusia.Pemujaan funeral into things that are important to adherents marapu. They believe that the person who died must be escorted to the nature spirits with considerable ceremony. If not, his spirit will hover so as to endanger his family and others. 

Funeral ceremonies involve the sacrifice of animals in large numbers. Dozens of buffalo, horses and pigs must be slaughtered to complete the ceremony. The body then placed in the grave or the grave stone. Although residents are now so many have embraced the Christian religion, the ceremony is still performed. Some bodies also remain buried with grave stones bearing the cross. 


In the village, as well as in town, I see many people bearing the machete. Apparently the natives used to sheathe machete Sumba sharply to the waist, wherever they go. I met a father who proudly told the story about began to attack. He claimed to have used machetes to kill people. "But that was before. Now bring machetes be one way to keep my custom," said the father.
Blood and war is not foreign to the natives of Sumba. It is said that in ancient times, villagers have a habit of beheading and skinning opponent who lost in the war between tribes. This village had a human skin-covered drums. Unfortunately I can not see it because of the small drum is just out at traditional ceremonies. Until now, inter-tribal wars still occur for various reasons, among others scramble tanah.Suasana border village crowded with mothers who weave cloth on the front porch. These fabrics are made with simple tools and decorated with traditional symbols merapu. A sheet of woven fabric takes one to two weeks and will be sold starting price of USD 50 thousand. The villagers seem accustomed to the arrival of tourists, who will be asked to sign the guest book and giving donations. Children will be greeted cheerfully, in hopes of getting a piece of candy. 

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